No region in Italy is fully suitable for the production of Pinot Noir. Burgundy expert Giancarlo Marino reiterated this concept in a recent interview on Intravino. All we have is single vineyards and individual producers who make Pinot Noirs that are at once Burgundian in style and fascinating in their own way. Among these few, stands out Podere della Civettaja, a natural producer that makes refined Pinots even in the most challenging vintages.
Fermented spontaneously and aged for 12 months in barrique of third, fourth and fifth passage, the 2017 Pinot Noir possesses the “flamboyance” of Cote d’ Or’s best red wines. Sporting a classically transparent ruby colorwith light garnet hues, this elegant Pinot combines ripe, luscious fruit with scents of damp earth, wild herbs, dried rose , cumin and ginseng. On the palate, silky tanninsbackbone pristine, downright delicious flavours of blood orangeand brambly red fruit. The finish is long andmultifaceted – you get an almost seamless flow of Turkish coffee, incense, and lavender.
Vincenzo Tommasi, the owner of Podere della Civettaja, was literally dazzled on the way to the Côte d’Or. An agronomist by training, he moved back to Tuscany in 2002, and established a Pinot-centric company in Casentino, an area of the Province of Arezzo that is better known for the production of luxury textiles. Over the last few years, this area has become home to a good number of vineyards/ vigneron that make either good or excellent Pinot Noirs. Vincenzo also founded he Association of the Tuscan Pinot Noir winemakers. Having tasted this wine multiple times, I dare to say that he is the most reliable Pinot Noir producerlocated south of Bologna.
Score: 93/100
Podere della Civettaja
52015 Casina Rossa (AR)
Visit Sommelier Life International
If you liked this article, you might also like:
The heartwarming 2008 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo by Emidio Pepe
Metodo Classico: four sommeliers from Rome recommend four Italian sparkling wines
Wine talks with Richard Baudains, author at Decanter
Giulia Negri: Barolo’s next big thing
Elvio Cogno: racy Barolos and the glorious A-Nas-cetta
Domaine Francois Lamarche – Burgundy from a feminine perspective
